A
Custom-Built Hutch System
What
we've done since we built our barn last year and
quickly ran out of room is buy a 16x20 car
port. We built cages and suspended them from the
roof, and that's where our Flemish Giants are.
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This
is a view of our carport from the southwest.
We have 12 cages inside; eight hanging and
four down the middle. |
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Winterizing: We
live in southwestern lower Michigan, so what
we'll be doing for the winter is attaching plastic
to at least three sides of the carport. We'll
then anchor the plastic to the ground with bales
of straw. Eventually we'll attach 1x4 boards
to the uprights and make frames for each end
in order to attach screening. We'll install a
door at the south end, which is about four feet
from the rabbit barn. We also want to run electric
to the carport for light. Our Flemish seem to
be doing very well there as opposed to being
in the barn. |
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This view is from the north end.
As you can see, the cages down the middle are free-standing. |
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Building Cages: We build
our own cages using 1x2 galvanized after weld wire.
We order the wire from Klubertanz, a supplier in
Wisconsin. We usually order in rolls of 100 feet,
but order the wire for the floors precut. Probably
lots of hardware stores carry galvanized after
weld, but none in our area carry the floor wire.
And it's cheaper to order through a supplier, in
my opinion. We fasten the wire with j-clips. If
we need a divider in the cage, those are fastened
with o-clips. We also have a j-clip remover for
those little mistakes we make. We've gotten better
since we started,though. We can put together a
48x30 cage in less than an hour.
Our Flemish cages are 48x30; our Silver Fox
cages are 24x30 for bucks and 24x36 for does.
Our Mini Rex cages are 15x24, 24x24, and 24x30
(does), though we've decided to sell our MR herd.
We want to concentrate on the Flemish Giants
and Silver Fox.
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This is a shot of how
the cages hang. We drilled holes in the roof, put
in eyehooks, sealed with silicon, and then suspended
the cages from wire on all four corners. Bottoms
of the cages are secured with wire to the upright
poles.
Floors: All of the outside cages have wire floors. We use 14g 1x1/2 galvanized
after weld floor wire, precut. Actually, all our cages have wire floors. We have
pans in the barn because those cages are stackers. We use a wire brush to clean
the floors.
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A view of the free-standing cages.
We built the frame with 2x4s and landscape timbers.
The cages are suspended with cage hooks at the
bottom. |
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Doors: There's nothing
special about the cage doors except that we make
them to size for our rabbits. Flemish are very
large, so those doors are large. Some are hinged
at the bottom, but most are hinged either right
or left.
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This is a view of the free-standing
cages from the other end. |
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A Little Advice: If
you want to build your own cages, I suggest that
you study pre-made cages carefully. Notice some
of the shortcuts like cutting the corners of the
floors, sides, and/or tops so that when j-clipping
you're not trying to clip three wires.The only
real problem we've run into is bending the wire.
We use a 2x4 and a hammer. I'd love to know how
the pros bend theirs. I'm sure they have something
just for that, but we make do. And it works for
us.
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These are some of our first hutches.
They're attached to the side of one of our barns.
In the winter we attach plexiglass to the front
of them. The bottoms are left open for airflow.
These were built with wood frames and wire floors. |
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Wood Hutches: We also
have three hutches on the back of the same barn
the side hutches are on. Yes, they're made of wood,
and, yes, the rabbits have gnawed some of the wood.
But cages been there for four years now and are
just starting to show signs of needing repair.
We plan on leaving the basic structures and making
cages that will just slide in.
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